How to Apply Tung Oil Properly -Tips & Techniques
Pure Tung Oil enhances wood by accentuating its grain and adding depth to its patterns. Here is a step by step guide to applying Tung Oil the right way.
Tung oil protects, nurtures and beautifies wood like no other finishing product available. It is my all-time favorite choice for finishes that don’t require rock-hard protection offered by clear surface coatings such as polyurethane, lacquer and shellac.
Pure Tung oil is the perfect choice for food preparation areas because it is a eco-friendly, green, natural product without additives. It is known for its longevity, durability, and easy reparability. It is impervious to water and most other liquids. Unlike a lot of natural oils it is impervious to mold, it won’t darken with age and it won’t become rancid. Plus, it enhances the wood’s natural grain patterns. By comparison, no other finishing product can come close.
Like all oils, Tung oil is flexible so it moves easily with woods natural seasonal expansion and contraction. Like all other oils it can be easily repaired when damaged. Unlike most other oils and top coats in its pure form it contains no harmful VOC’s or other chemicals.
NOTE: Tung oil is sold as PURE TUNG OIL, POLYMERIZED TUNG OIL and a variety of TUNG OIL FINISHES. The “FINISH” variety or any Tung oil product not labeled as “PURE” has been hydrolyzed or contain additives many of which are petroleum based. All are done to enhance speed of application, drying times and in many cases manufacturer profits. Many of the additives emit VOC’s (Volatile Organic Chemicals) so they are no longer an eco-friendly, green product nor are they “food safe”. Some are blended with polyurethane for added durability. I’ve heard that some purveyors of Tung oil don’t have any actual Tung oil in it.
I’m not saying that these products are bad but if staying green and you want the beauty and benefit that a “pure” Tung oil product delivers then use care in your selection process and know what you’re actually buying. While I do recommend thinning the oil it can be done with citrus-based solvents rather than paint thinner or mineral spirits keeping the finish VOC free and green.
Tung oil comes from the seeds of the nuts from the Chinese Tung tree, so if you have a nut or seed allergy proceed with caution, it may not be the best choice for surfaces or utensils that will be in direct contact with food. While there is a lot of debate concerning the possibility of nut/seed allergy there are other oil finish choices where food safety is an issue. For this reason, I don’t recommend it for cutting boards, wooden utensils and wooden serving dishes and bowls.
The other popular wood finishing oil is Boiled Linseed Oil and it has a ton of woodworker and finishing fans. The biggest advantage is speed of application and cost. I will cover that in my next article.
Tung Oil Advantages
That said here’s the advantages of Pure Tung Oil. There are no chemicals added, it hasn’t been polymerized or hydrolyzed, it won’t yellow with age, it doesn’t turn rancid, it is mildew resistant, it’s one of the few oils that hardens completely and stays flexible after hardening and it is waterproof. Tung oil has been used on boat decks for years, and is now becoming a popular wood floor finish. Lastly, while all finishes can be damaged with Tung oil any damage is easily repaired.
Tung Oil Disadvantages
There are a few downsides to Tung oil. It costs more than many other oils, it dries slower so takes additional time between coats. This can be a few days with proper temperature and humidity to weeks in cold, humid conditions. Polymerized Tung Oil has been super heated changing it’s chemistry slightly. Polymerization allows for drying overnight. I recommend thinning both and 5 coats. That said, if beauty combined with function and durability is what you are after Tung oil should be at the top of your list.
Tung Oil Coverage
A gallon of Tung oil will cover 400-500 square feet but since we will be thinning it and applying multiple coats 2.5-3 gallons is recommended for that area dimension.
What you should have on hand before starting:
New Wood – 2 Grades of Sand Paper (120 – 180 – 220 – 320 – 400)
Old Wood or Damaged Wood Surfaces – 3 Grades (80-120-180 – 220 – 320 – 400) and a mechanical sander
Tack Cloth
Latex Gloves
Applicator (choose one)– (Cotton Rag – Natural Bristle Brush – Foam Brush)
Pure Tung Oil
Thinner: Either mineral spirits or an eco-friendly citrus based thinner
Suitable mixing container
Clean rag for wiping excess
Mineral spirits (Oil stains only)
Proper Tung Oil Application and Surface Preparation
Oils, unlike clear surface coatings polyurethane, lacquer and shellac (from here in I will refer to them as surface coatings), should be finish sanded anywhere from 320 to 400 grit sandpaper. Surface coatings will hide 180 grit sandpaper scratches whereas oil will accentuate them. So when oiling wood a finer finish sanding is highly recommended.
Raising Woods Grain – A necessary Step for a Fine Finish
Think of prepping wood for finishing like getting a haircut. The first wash after your barber visit results in a whole bunch of split ends that suddenly pop. Well wood fibers are a lot like hair strands. After all the sawing, gluing, planning and sanding many of the wood fibers are damaged and torn. Adding moisture (like shampooing your hair) pops those broken strands and they need to be removed for a really nice finish.
For that better finish the grain should be intentionally raised before staining or finishing. I always wet my woods after my 180 grit sanding (for a complete sanding explanation see my YouTube videos Sanding Efficiently <for beginners>, and Choosing the Right Grade Sandpaper for Your Woodworking Project <for all levels>). Wetting the wood raises its grain (kinda like split-ends in hair) which can be sanded down with the last or next sanding of 180 or 220 grit papers.
Raising the Grain entails wetting the wood’s surface, letting it dry and then re-sanding to knock down raised wood fibers. You can use a spray bottle or a wet rag to moisten (not soak) the surface. Let it dry and then come back and sand or re-sand with a 220 grit sandpaper (if you are staining or applying a surface coating use 180 grit to level the grain).
Thinning “PURE” Tung Oil – The Proper Way
Surface Coatings (polyurethane, lacquer and shellac) lay on the surface of the wood. Oils penetrate into the wood surrounding and lubricating layers of the woods structural fibers and filling its pores. Tung oil will require a minimum of 5-8 coats with many woodworkers moving well into the teens. Future coats will gravitate close to the depth of the last coat, building on its depth, durability and appearance.
The less viscid (thinner) the oil the easier and consequently deeper the wood absorbs that liquid. Based on that we are going to shoot to get the oil as deep as possible into the woods underlying fibrous layers. Since most oils in nature are thick and viscid we will thin our first coat by 70% (7 parts thinners to 3 parts Tung oil).
Future coats will be thinned as follows:
- First Coat – 70% (7 Parts Solvent to 3 Parts Tung Oil)
- Second Coat – 55% (51/2 Parts Solvent to 41/2 Parts Tung Oil)
- Third Coat – 40% (4 Parts Solvent to 6 Parts Tung Oil)
- Fourth Coat – 25% (1 Part Solvent to 3 Part Tung Oil)
- Remaining Coats – 0% (No Solvent)
As I mentioned, future coats will gravitate close to the depth of the last coat, building on its depth, durability and appearance. Thinning can be accomplished by adding paint thinner, mineral spirits or naphtha. All are petroleum-based products that emit volatile organic chemicals (VOC’s) during the application process and for a period of time afterward.
Eco-friendly Tung Oil Thinners
If additives and VOC’s are a concern for you and your family then citrus based thinner solvents are readily available and can be used with the same ratios listed above.
Mix the oil and solvent in a jar, bowl or clean squeeze bottle type container.
Applying Pure Tung Oil – Properly
TIP: It’s always best to get the feel of any procedure by practicing in an unnoticeable area like the bottom of a table, the back of a dresser, the inside of a cabinet, etc. I’ve done thousands of projects over the last 30 plus years and “ALWAYS” follow this rule on every one of them.
Tung Oil can be applied with a natural bristle brush, a foam sponge type brush or a clean cotton rag. If using a cotton cloth swatch (old T-shirt material is perfect), fold it into a pad so there are no cut edges with hanging threads touching your surface to be finished (to avoid thread tear).
Start with the hardest to reach spots first to avoid contact later in the application. Apply following the grain of the wood. The object of the first coat is to saturate the wood as deeply as possible.
Apply a generous but controllable amount of Tung oil to your applicator especially for the initial few coats. The surface should look very, very wet but not puddled. The thinned oil should soak in rather quickly to kiln dried wood. Older and reclaimed woods will suck it up like a camel in the dessert. All areas should look wet but if any areas have standing puddles spread them out or wipe them off.
On the flip side if your wood sucks in your application, reapply again and again keeping the surface wet (but not puddled) with oil for the next 30 minutes. After 30 minutes your wood should be saturated with oil and any excess wiped off.
Watch for the next couple hours and if any excess oil has bubbled to the surface wipe it off. At this point allow to dry before applying the next coat.
Re-application Timing – The Pitfall of Tung Oil
As I mentioned earlier there is no more beautiful finish to a wood surface than Tung oil provides. That said, there is a trade-off and that trade-off is drying time and layering of coats. Lacquer can be reapplied within minutes and the complete project with multiple coats completed in less than a day (the reason most mass produced furniture is lacquered). But the appearance of a lacquer finish doesn’t come close to a properly done Tung oil finish. After the initial and subsequent applications you should wait 2-7 days before sanding and reapplying.
Wait time is based on how quickly the surface dries. This is a factor based on temperature, humidity and thickness of the coat. Since early coats have been thinned they tend to dry much quicker (see sanding between coats for timing). If taking a 10-45 days to complete your project is unreasonable and you still want close to the appearance of a pure Tung oil finish, you could switch to a polymerized Tung oil finish product (not pure Tung oil) or to boiled linseed oil (BLO), both cut finish time substantially.
Polymerized Tung oil has been heat treated and additives that speed drying times added. The downside to speed is appearance. Pure Tung oil gives off a deep, rich, matte-like finish. It really accentuates the grain patterns and adds depth to your wood’s surface. Polymerized produces a more shiny, reflective surface.
Tung Oil Re-coating – Sanding Between Coats
Typical dry times are between 2 and 7 days before re-coating. You can test to see if the surface is ready to be re-coated by doing a light sanding in a small area with a 400-600 grit sandpaper. If the sanding produces a fine white dust you are good to go. If on the other hand it turns gummy and clogs your paper the surface is not dry enough for re-coating.
Between coats just before apply your next coat do a very lite sanding following the direction of the grain (operative word is lite as we don’t want to cut through the very thin layer we just put down previously). Use either a 400-600 grit sandpaper, a #0000 grade steel wool, or a grey scotch brite pad (grey pads are rated 400-600 grit).
Applying Tung Oil – The Final Coat
Your final coat(s) of Tung oil should be applied full strength. Don’t sand the final coat. I allow it to cure and then depending on the look I am looking for I might apply a coat of paste wax. Paste wax on wood is just like paste wax on your car. It offers minimal protection but adds depth and smoothness to your wood project. Please avoid waxes with silicone additives. Silicone (like WD-40) adds a slippery texture that feels nice to the touch but fouls refinishing coatings and becomes an absolute bear to remove should you ever decide to touch-up or refinish your project.
Tung Oil Repair
You won’t believe how easy this is. Clean the damaged area, apply pure Tung oil undiluted to a soft cotton cloth and wipe it on. If it soaks it up quickly apply a little more and repeat until the wetness lasts for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, with a little elbow grease, rub the Tung oil into the damaged area for a few minutes. Wipe any excess and you’re done.
Tung Oil Rag Disposal
Oily rags are volatile and should be hung to air dry. Rags have been known to spontaneously combust when balled up in a refuge container.
Tung Oil – Dry vs Hardening
Tung oil dries in a few days and can be put in moderate service. Tung Oil does not fully cure or harden (dry all the way through) for 30-45 days. It’s okay to put your project in service once dry but you should refrain from heavy use until hardened.
Haven’t been tortured enough? – My YouTube Library:
My Refinishing Furniture YouTube Library:
Chemical Strippers vs Heat Gun – Refinishing Furniture
Sanding Efficiently – The Second Step In Refinishing Furniture
Choosing the Right Grade Sandpaper for Your Woodworking Project – Refinishing Furniture
Blotch-Free Wood Stain Application Technique – Refinishing Furniture
Bubble-Free Polyurethane Application Technique
When and How to Wipe On Polyurethane – Refinishing Furniture
Ultimate Guide to Bubble Free Varnish – Doors, Furniture, Cabinets, Tables
Fixing Polyurethane Bubbles, Puddles, Runs and Brush Marks
Proper Brush Cleaning – Paint, Polyurethane, Varnish, Shellac
Refinishing Furniture PDF Summary Sheets Available for Download and Printing:
Polyurethane – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF
Stripper – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF
Sanding – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF
Choosing the Right Grade Sandpaper (Chart) PDF
Staining – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF
Wipe On Polyurethane – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF
How to Apply Boiled Linseed Oil Properly -Tips & Techniques
Bubble-Free Polyurethane Application Technique
A Step by Step Guide to Refinishing Furniture or Finishing Furniture
About The Author
Hey Salvador. This site is too new. Spammers probably don’t know I exist yet!! I may be writing you to ask what you’ve done. best of luck with that . . . paul
Hey Blake. Glad it worked out. Pure Tung Oil is my favorite finish if I have the time. It’s important that the last coat has dried before applying the next coat otherwise it becomes a sticky mess. Great description of the appearance BTW. Thanx for your comments. best . . . paul
Hey Alex,
Sorry for the delay. I check my YouTube site twice daily but I don’t check this site often so I am typically late in getting back to people. At this point I might try following the thinning steps and see if the wood takes it. The thick layer of tung oil may not allow it (i’m not at all sure,as I never done it in reverse). Wisk I had a more definitive answer for you, sorry. Please let me know. best . . . paul
Hi Corrine. I’m sorry I don’t have a citation. This is only my personal experience working with tung oils. best . . . paul
Sorry Catherine. I don’t check this site very often. I don’t work with polymerized Tung Oil so I can’t really comment on it’s properties. The issues could be temperature, humidity, and the moisture content of the bamboo itself. Bamboo is an interesting product. It is actually classed as a grass and lacks many of the commonalities of most woods. The problem you may be running into is bamboo has a much higher moisture content at it’s stem (base) than at it’s top. At this point all you can do is keep the surface in a very low humidity environment and wait-it-out. Sorry wish I had a more optimistic response. best . . . paul
Hi, thanks for the well detailed info.
I have used pure tung oil on a couple of things over the last couple of years and still have alot left over,how long does it last in the tin?, does it go bad and how do you know if it does?
Thanks
Great question Nick. Tung Oil falls into plant oil category (vs petroleum based oils). Plant oils will turn rancid if not chemically or heat (polymerized) treated. That is except for Tung Oil. Tung Oil is not subject to rancidity. If properly sealed Tung Oil will probably outlast you me and our kids (I’m old, so maybe even my grandkids)! As you are probably aware having used Tung Oil and as I’ve stated in my post Pure Tung Oil requires long dry times between coats. Modifying Tung Oil with chemicals or polymerizing Tung Oil speeds application recoating and drying time. Sorry off-topic and rambling. Anyway if not properly sealed Pure Tung Oil will partially dry out over time and clump. best . . . paul
Hi Paul, I too wish I had seen this a week earlier. I have 100 year old heart pine that I sanded to a 120 grit, which yielded pretty nice wood. Then I followed the instructions on the Real Milk Paints website and applied their Pure Tung Oil + Citrus Solvent at 50/50 %. I am considering bailing on the project after Day 1 (yesterday) because it looks really flat, uneven and yellowish. Per your post, it seems I should have sanded more and started with a different ratio. Should I now go back and sand to 400 grit and start over with the ratios/number of coats you suggest? Thanks!
Hi Lisa. Quick question. What type look are you going for? If you are looking for a more rustic look I believe 120 will be okay. If you are seeking high polish look I’m not sure what you can do at this point. The reason for super thinning is for deep absorbency. Each thicker coat become more of a surface coating. Removing the oil to get down to bare wood again would be reeeeeally hard. I would follow the manufacturers recommendations or call them directly for their advice. Sorry wish I could be of more assistance.
best . . . paul
Hi Paul and thanks for your reply. I don’t mind rustic, but we are really not liking the “country” look. The floor butts up against the carrera tiles in the bathroom and I have gold fixtures. So I guess you could say my look is kind of trendy right now but trying to stay in tune with the 1925 bungalow. I also don’t really like the high polish of poly and prefer a more satin finish. Do you know of anyone that has had experience sanding the tung oil off? The manufacturer says it can’t be sanded off. When we test sanded, it formed the white dust. Do you think we would still need to wait 30 days for it to cure? I love the idea of the tung oil but wish it were it a bit more even in color with less yellows and a bit higher sheen. Maybe a tint? (You know you are in trouble when you can’t even articulate good questions. 🙂
Hi Cliff. So sorry I haven’t been checking for emails over the Holidays. Sheen comes from light reflection. Depth comes from a perfectly level surface (grain filing). Varnishes including lacquer and polyurethane lay on the surface of the wood and are thus capable of producing a glossy surface (not necessarily a deep shine). Oils penetrate the woods fibers and tends to be more satiny in appearance. Most people who use oils prefer that appearance. Watco is not a PURE TUNG OIL but an oil/varnish combo. Formby’s is the same both offer both the penetration of oil and the surface sealing of a surface coat. I personally mix my own combo using pure polymerized tung oil and spar varnish (60/40 ratio) but it is not a high sheen finish. Your idea of switching to Formby’s sounds practical but I have never done it so I can’t verify that it will get you the results you are hoping for. It sounds like this isn’t your first rodeo so I probably don’t have to tell you to experiment on a hidden surface or scrap wood. Here’s another thought. I polish surface finishes to increase gloss. You might be able to polish the surface wet sanding with high grit sandpapers, again I have never tried it because a gloss sheen isn’t my objective for an oil finish. Lastly be sure that you want gloss and not depth (like a black baby grand piano finish). For depth need to spend time with a good grain filer (I like Aqua Coat). Hope this helps. best . . . paul
Hi! I have already used a homemade cream of beeswax and coconut oil on my bamboo bowls but I realized that my bowls are cracking when taken to places with low humidity and high temperatures. I’m thinking maybe using Tung oil over my homemade cream can help to avoid splitting and cracking. What are your thoughts? Can Tung oil be used over my homemade cream (beeswax+coconut oil)
Thanks
Hey Kriya. After discussing this with a few of my woodworking friends it seems you have a slight problem here. Wax can be dissolved in a few chemicals the most common and readily available (depending on newer state eco laws) is turpentine. The problem with this is I wouldn’t use any of the chemicals on food bowls (if infact they for food). On the flip side wax is not a good sealer and wears off after a few washings so any oil applied may penetrate sufficiently. I would scuff up the bowls with a few grades of steel wool (coarser to finer) and see if the wool clogs with wax then try applying pure polymerized tung oil on the bottom of one of your bowls to see if it absorbs. Hope this helps. Let me know please. best . . . paul
Are you using pure tung oil, polymerized tung oil or modified tung oil. Unless your can says pure or polymerized you are probably using a modified tung oil. Can you tell me which and the brand?
Hey David,
Manufacturers have altered tung oil to improve drying times and improve profitability. I’ve read that some “Tung Oil” products contain no tung oil at all. Buying Pure Tung or Polymerized Tun Oils eliminates additives. Polymerized Tung Oil is natural tung oil that has been super heated to change it’s molecular structure. Doing so allows for almost overnight dry times!! The process of heating tung oil has been around for years but needless toi say it’s a somewhat dangerous process to do in the average woodworker’s shop.
There are any number of online sites and some of your woodworking stores (non-big box like Rockler, etc) that carry it as well.
best
paul
Hi Elizabeth,
Yep Tung Oil is a great choice for outdoor projects and decks. I would avoid other plant oils as they tend to turn rancid and mildew typically follows. Not sure the condition of your deck but it needs to be clean and should be free of old finishes.
Cleaning products like oxalic acid, bleach, or commercial deck cleaners can do a good job of preparing your deck. Once dry the next step is to get the oil to penetrate as deep as possible. Thinning helps. Tung Oil is pretty thick so following my recommended thinning steps will help absorption tremendously. The good news is since its a deck you don’t need sand between coats and you can reapply the next day. There are a number of products out there Waterlox Pure Tung Oil is a good choice that’s readily available. Hope that helps.
best
paul
Hey John. It depends a lot on the type wood, how dry it is and the ambient temperature and humidity. Typical dry times are between 2 and 7 days before re-coating. You can test to see if the surface is ready to be re-coated by doing a light sanding in a small area with a 400-600 grit sandpaper. If the sanding produces a fine white dust you are good to go. If on the other hand it turns gummy and clogs your paper the surface is not dry enough for re-coating.
best
paul
Comment Paul, Thank you for the informative info. There isn’t a lot of specific information about Tung Oil.
I have 2 Redwood Burl live edge tables. I sanded down to original wood and used 220 grit last. I put a coat of Tung Oil and mineral spirits 50/50. then about 9 coats and I’m sure I didn’t let it completely dry between coats so it now has different “sheens” and the grain is not even. Can I add some more coats and sand between them and it will even out or am I stuck with the irregularities. The grain amazing, it has everything from the birds eye to wavy “sand dunes”to light and dark textures but id like the final look to be even on the sheen. Is it possible?
Thanks for the info. Ross
Hey Ross. Yeah I think it’s the timing. It’s probably uneven drying and saturation issues. That’s the problem with Tung Oil is you don’t allow it to thoroughly dry between coats. I would let it dry which could take time, sand it well (it should produce a very fine white dust evenly over the entire table) and apply a last coat but don’t allow it to soak in just apply give a minute and wipe. Let that dry and buff. In the future I would recommend a polymerized tung oil. It’s pure tung oil that’s super heated which changes its composition so it dries overnight. Miraculous stuff. best . . . paul
Hey Cobus. I wouldn’t cover it in plastic. It will interfere with drying. I wouldn’t worry about dust until the very last coat as you will be sanding each coat until then anyway. If you do accumulate dust on your last coat you can use the material from a brown paper bag in place of sandpaper. It is coarse enough to remove dust nibs and fine enough so as not to alter the sheen. Definitely stain before applying any topcaot. Lastly I haven’t written it yet but I would recommend you use polymerized Tung oil. It is super-heated Tung oil that alters its molecular structure. The benefit is it dries in hours to days vs weeks. Follow the same thinning and application technique. best . . .paul
Great read. Is there a clear coat finish that I can put on a cedar slab that I have finished with Tung oil? I am looking for a great glaze finish that can be used outside under a patio. It will get some late day sun and some rain.
Thank you.
Hey Steve. I imagine you could go over it with another oil product. Spar varnish is outdoor and UV resistant. My question though is why? Tung Oil by itself is a great finish. best . . . paul
Where can I find a Pure Tung Oil that you might recommend?
Can you ever poly over a Tung oil finish if you decided to later on, or would the Tung oil prevent the poly from Adhering properly?
If you go online you can find both Pure and Polymerized Tung Oils. I think big box stores have limited versions of Pure but I like other suppliers. You might check Southland Wells. I’m sure you could go over Tung Oil with polyurethane but why? It’d be like repainting a Rolls Royce with a can of rustoleum!! Maybe that’s a little too harsh but while I like and use polyurethane, I love Tung Oil. best . . . paul
Also, my second comment…. I have red oak wood over 300 years old and I am wanting to finish with Tung oil but don’t have much experience with Tung oil period. Would this be a good application for 300 year old Red Oak? It is very dry wood.
Hey Mathew. Yes. The wood at this stage has to be really dried out so it would love an oil bath. Check out Polymerzied Tung Oil vs Pure Tung Oil. It is Pure Tung Oil that has been super heated which alters its molecular structure. The result same oil but quick drying!! Sounds like a great project. best . . . paul
Hello. Thank you a very informative description of the process. Perhaps you can offer me some additional insight. I am building a small camp on an island in Maine and have purchase kiln dried, ship lap cedar boards for the inside walls of the camp.
1. I was thinking of applying the tung oil on the mainland and then transporting them to nail up with the finish already on. Do you like this idea?
2. The cedar has knots. Will tung oil be effective over knots?
3. Do you think I need as many coats as you suggest for interior walls and if not, could you suggest a dilution ratio and number of coats that would be acceptable?
4. I would trim the ends of the finished boards on site and then lightly sand the rough edge left after cutting. My thoughts would to then apply Tung oil to the end grain. What would you recommend as to process for this step?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Rex
Hey Rex. Are the boards rough sawn or smooth surface?
Hey Rex. I would recommend a polymerized tung oil for this project. It’s pure tung oil that has been super-heated creating a faster dry time (overnight vs days to weeks). You could even go with a varnish/tung oil combo. Check out a website Sutherland Wells. I like the idea of applying the product laying flat vs vertical. A lot easier on you. Also sealing the ends may not be necessary since the boards will be securely fastened. The knots will be fine. Two coats should do ya. If you go with the polymerized you need not thin coats. It’s a lot thinner and easier to work with than pure tung oil. best . . . paul
Thank you so much Paul. You have saved me a ton of work!
Happy to be involved Rex. best . . . paul
Sorry Joe. I’m familiar with the name of the product but don’t use it, so I can’t answer that your question. best . . . paul
I happened upon your website while looking for info on finishes (a Google search for Linseed oil brought me here). You have brought me down a very deep, but entertaining and informative, rabbit hole. Your articles are clearly presented and easy to read. Thank you very much for sharing.
Would you recommend boiled linseed oil or tung oil for a cedar Adirondack chair? I like the idea of a greener finish and love the ease and look of oils. But I don’t want to do something that will not hold up or come off on people if they sit on it. We live in the Northwest, so hot, dry summers and wet winters (although I’m trying to find the space to bring it in over the wetter months). Thank you!
Hey Kurt. Couple things. BLO is not green. It has been treated with with hardeners and driers to make it usable. There is a process of super heating linseed oil that is green Purified Linseed Oil (like Polymerized Tung Oil) is heated at very high temperatures which in essence changes it’s chemical composition. This process allows both products to dry faster. In the case of linseed oil it removes the potential to rot and in the case of tung oil it hastens dry time substantially. I would go with polymerized tung oil because it’s waterproof whereas linseed oil is water resistant and tung oil holds up to UV rays. best . . . paul
Hello,
I have been applying tung oil to my old teak furniture and a new oak worktop with mixed results & Id like to know what I’m doing wrong.
One table is perfect, slightly satin and waterproof.
The other table has gone dull and mat in places, if I put more oil on, it stays mat. It’s had several weeks to dry between the coats. The chairs are dull too and a little sticky, did I maybe put too much on too fast?
As for the new oak worktop, the oil seems to disappear. Even after several coats the wood goes back to a dull finish. It takes more than 24 hrs to dry.
Is there a difference in quality of tung oil?
Thank you in advance for answering all these questions
Hi Miriam. There’s a lot of questions I have as well. Not sure the type tung oil you used. There are manufacturers who sell stuff as tung oil without any actual tung oil in them. This raises a lot of questions as to how to correct the issue because it’s not clear what chemicals are in the can. Often dry spots are the result of the wood. Perhaps the wood grain changes within the wood itself. This causes areas where absorption is different. Perhaps the table was sanded unevenly or an old finish not removed evenly. Perhaps on an older piece of wood something was spilled or applied that is resulting in lack of penetration or over-penetration of the oils. Some furniture polishes contain silicone which is virtually impossible to remove from a surface. Silicone plays havoc with all refinish jobs. They prevent surface coats from sticking and oils from penetrating. Polishes containing them should be avoided at all costs. The most common issue though is not thinning the oil for the initial coats. Thinning helps the oil penetrate and acts a sealer ensuring an even finish in the end. I only use Pure Tung Oils ot Polymerized Tung Oils and I thin in stages to assure absorption and to seal the wood. Tung oil has to cure (dry all the through) before applying subsequent coats. This can be checked by a light sanding with a 300 grit sandpaper. If the surface produces a white dust it is ready for recoating, if it doesn’t it isn’t dry and more time is necessary. Humidity plays an extremely important role with tung oil. If you used Pure Tung Oil or Polymerized Tung Oil you can saturate the surface with mineral spirits, wipe it down, let it dry 24 hours and repeat until most of the oil is gone. Then do a light sanding and apply following my site instructions. If you use Polymerized Tung Oil in place of Pure Tung Oil the dry times will be overnight instead of days to weeks between coats. best . . . paul
Thank you for the great info!
I am renovating a home and installing hardwood maple floors. The owners would like an oil finish for the floor if possible. I am considering Tung oil but concerned that it will not penetrate the maple because it is so dense/hard.
What are your thoughts?
Hey Mark. Yeah maple is tough. Pores are soooo tight virtually nothing gets in. Sotherland Wells makes a combo finish (tung oil and varnish) that would be the best of both worlds. Check it out. best . . . paul
Hey Jacob. You can do both sides during the same application time. I would start on the less observable side, apply the oil, let it soak in, wipe off excess and then flip to the other side. It’s important that you keep air space and not rest the finished side on a flat surface. This can be done by using painters points (google them) or something similar to maintain air space. best . . . paul
Comment. Thank you for all this great information. I applied two coats of pure tung oil yesterday, first coat thinned one part oil two parts terpintin second coat thinned 1 to 1 to our deck. The deck I’d previously stripped and brightened. I’d planned on putting on the third coat today however there is a
60% chance of rain tomorrow. Should I wait for better weather or can tung oil tolerate rain a day after application. Again thank you!
Hey Rollie. Tung Oil was made for the rain. Most oils are water resistant, tung oil is water repellent!! Go for it. best . . . paul
Hey Jack. Yeah wax will stop any oil from being absorbed. It does wear off after time (depends on the environment). I’m not sure the wax will add anything to the finish so my question is why are you thinking about applying it? best . . . paul
Hello Paul, using pure unprocessed (Woodriver) Tung Oil on piece of Western Red Cedar. Started project before seeing yr post. But did thin the tung oil first coat 50/50. Now has many coats of unthinned oil. Use very fine steel wool between coats. Problem is, after curing, I always see mix of beautiful semi-gloss finish, and flat, dead, areas. Not sure what I’m doing wrong.
Hey Mark. Cedar is a very porous (thirsty) wood. A soft wood varies greatly in its porosity and hence the amount of oil it soaks up in various spots. Three things help when using oil on porous woods. Sand up to a 400 grit paper, use a grain filler and thin all applications in steps. The only thing I can suggest at this point is apply oil to the dry spots with the hope that eventually it will saturate to the same level as the non-dried spots. Do not let the oil sit for more than 10-15 minutes (it will get flaky) and be sure the oiled spots are dry (test sand to be sure) before adding more oil. It could take a long time to reach even saturation so be prepared. I have recently been working with polymerized (super heated) tung oils and have fallen in love because of their quick dry times. Sorry, wish I had an easy solution for you at this time but wood prep is essential with oil finishes. best . . . paul
Hey Jen. Spar varnish is also called marine varnish. It was the choice clear finish for wooden boats. It’s one tough water resistant finish. Spar varnish and all oils (including tung) have an amber cast (most all oils in nature do), so there’s no getting away from the amber cast. If your door is an unpainted wood most oils enhance the wood’s surface appearance. A well applied tung oil finish won’t need varnish over it. I have been experimenting with a 50:50 ratio of tung oil and “polymerized” tung oil. Make sure it’s “polymerized” tung oil. It’s a great finish that offers the beauty of oil and the protection of varnish. Grain raise only happens after the first coat of polyurethane, stain, etc. You sand between coats not for grain raise but for better adhesion. Yes you’ll be okay and you are right about dry times and humidity. best . . . paul
Hey Becky. The door will do well with tung oil. It isn’t bothered too much by UV other than every finish tends to dry in direct sunlight. It can be used on decking but I personally have never done it. Wolmanuzed lumber needs to be seasoned at least one season before applying a finish. Glad your butcher block came out to your liking. Tung oil is a great product. best . . . paul
Hi Jose,
First off thank you for viewing my site and for trusting enough to ask questions. I can answer most procedure questions (not all) but I struggle with questions where people are looking for solutions to improper applications.
There are soooo many things that could be an issue. Problems vary depending on the type of wood, the age and dryness of the wood, the type and method of application, the duration since application, etc, etc, etc.
One of the toughest problems is a bad stain job. Stain goes deep into the wood and saturates its pores. Removing it is really hard. Strippers don’t do much and sanding takes forever because of the depth of the penetration. Small imperfections in a top coating clear finish (polyurethane, shellac, lacquer, varnish) can typically be corrected with a very light sanding, whereas large defects are best handled with strippers.
I could possibly offer some advice if I could see the piece, touch the piece, sample the wood, etc but that is not practical so the best advice I can give is call a local refinisher. I’m sorry I know you were in hope of and easy, quick and lasting solution but any advice I could give might not be correct.
best
paul
Hey Joel, sorry spell check automatically changed your name to JOSE. Must have the Spanish version of spell check!!
Hey Alex. Dampness will slow drying time so if your basement is humid it will affect it. Pure tung oil is slow to dry. 45 minutes is WAY TOO SOON. It could take days to weeks. Thinning it will improve dry times substantially. It’s hard to say exactly how much time is needed. That’s why you should test it with a piece of fine sandpaper. If the finish produces a white dust you are set to go with the next coat. If it doesn’t it’s not dry enough. best . . . paul
Hi Jim. I’m really not sure Jim. I only use tung oil on raw wood or wood where old finishes have been removed completely. I’m not sure you’d achieve a uniform finish look. Sorry wish I could be more help. best . . . paul
Hi Paul
Thank you so much fir writing thing blog. I’ve been following your instructions to refinish our furniture ( oak table , walnut table with polyurethanes and now maple chairs with tung oil)
I am working on old 60 year old maple kitchen chairs. I stripped and sanded them, and then applied pure tung oil that was diluted 4:1 with mineral spirits ( so only 20% tung oil.) It soaked in very quickly- I doubt I wiped off after. A week later I did another coat just as dilute, and waited a week. At the edge of one of the seats ( end grain) a tiny bit of white residue appeared and I just thought it was some wax. I put a less dilute coat on – this time 75:25 mineral spirits to tung oil. I didn’t wipe it off because, since everything has soaked in so quickly on the old wood, I didn’t realize it was needed. This time there is a very light white powdery residue coat seating in some spots. I should have wiped down before it started drying. Is there anything I can do at this point ? Sanding? Mineral spirits? Stripper? Thanks very much.
Hi Sarah. What you are experiencing is the tung oil drying. This happens from over saturated wood. The pores (especially on old wood) are very dry and hence very thirsty (hence your dry spots). The problem comes when the oil has dried on the surface but not inside the pores. The wood starts to regurgitate the oil resulting in the white residue. Not sure where you are and the temp/humidity levels but give it some extra dry time and go over it with a #0000 steel wool. Wooling will remove the white then you can add more oil. This time flood the surface and then wipe it off at full strength. Here you are not going for absorption but coverage. Allow adequate dry time (tung oil is slow). A light sanding that produces white dust says you’re ready for the next coat (if you decide to do another coat). Hope this helps. best . . . paul
Sir, I read you piece on tung oil refinishing. Thanks. I’ve read in other online sites that tung oil can leave a “wrinkly” finish and that to avoid that, one should boil the tung oil. Also, I have some cracks in my wood that I’m working with that I want to carefully epoxy back together. Is there any conflict or issue I should be aware of between using epoxy on these hairline cracks and then apply multiple coats of tung oil? Thank you.
Hi Paul. Sorry for the delayed response, out of town. That’s why thinning is so important. Epoxy in the cracks won’t matter. While the oil won’t be absorbed into the epoxy the epoxy itself will be a protectant of sorts. River tables are often a combination of epoxy and some oil. best . . . paul
Hi Paul,
Some great information here! I’m about to finish a Macrocarpa guitar body with your above instructions. In order to get an even finish, do you think I need to use a sanding sealer, particularly on the end grain?
Many thanks, Nick
Hey Nick. Sorry for the delayed response, out of town. Actually what you want is a grain filler not sanding sealer. Sanding sealer just makes the surface slipperier. Is your guitar acoustic or electric (sorry musically challeneged)? Acoustic instruments are typically done in shellac with a technique called French Polishing. I’m told it preserves tonal quality better. Electric is wide open. best . . . paul
Hi Paul, thank yo so much for this thoughtful and detailed article, and for replying to these comments!
So I have a fireplace mantel that is made from pine, and it is unfinished (our carpenter did a lovely job!). For each of the tung oil application videos I’ve seen, the oil is applied to one side and then the piece is flipped over for application to the other side. My question is since the mantel is already mounted in place, will there be any problems with applying the oil to the sides and undersides? Will the oil properly penetrate when applied upside down? will it run along the sides? Is the application technique different from when applying it to the top, and are there any problems to be on the lookout for? Also, will the cure time be different on the top vs the underside?
Thanks again!!
Michael
Hey Michael. Sorry for the delayed response, out of town. Yes you can doo all sides. Gravity obviously favors applying to top but the oil will still be absorbed upside down. It’ll be messier but that’s why painters invented dropclothes. best . . . paul
Hi, Paul. I have my grandmother’s old huntboard from Virginia and want to preserve the different layers of laquer, oils, and patina it has acquired over the past 200 years. I am using it on my screened porch and want to protect it from moisture, using Tung Oil. I don’t want to do the usual preps but my question is this: do surface oils/waxes need to be removed for tung oil to properly penetrate? If so, how best to clean while preserving the antique patina? Thank you very much.
Hey Robin. Yes you definitely need to be down to bare wood to allow for penetration. Otherwise the oil will just sit on top and never properly dry or protect. best . . . paul
Hey Fred yeah sorry. The good news is you can still apply thinned coats and while it may not go as deep it will still saturate more than the first coat. best . . . paul
Het Jsas. Glad to hear. The sanding will actually create a slur which will help fill pores, which is good. Thanx fir the stir age recommendations. best . . . paul
Hey John. Sorry for the delayed response, out of town. I wouldn’t the reason to wait is the oil needs to dry. It will be tacky and can be damaged using it in between. best . . . paul
Hi Cliveous. Actually you can download them right from my website and print them on your computer. Happy Holidays . . . paul
Het Dan. You ae one lucky guy to have a slab of oak large enough for a table. Make sure it is properly dried before starting. Moisture content should be lower than 18% or it will crack, curl, cup, warp, etc, etc, etc. Tung oil would be a great finish. Tough, waterproof, beautiful and easy to repair if damaged. Just understand the mechanics of application (it’s easy but slow to dry between coats). Happy Holidays . . . paul
A 2 inch slab of oak and kids!! Your life sounds perfect!!! Happy Holidays . . . paul
Hey Colleen. In all the years I’ve been using plywood I have never seen the glue from a veneer dissolved by paint thinner (or any of the thinning agents). Without thinning the oil will be a sticky glop and it won’t properly absorb. best . . . paul
Hi Paul. I bought a couple of unfinished parawood desks that I want to finish with tung oil. I ran across a site that advised against getting parawood wet due to rotting, fungus, and insect damage. Have you worked with this wood and would you still suggest wetting it after using a 180 grit sand paper? Thanks for all your helpful info.
Hey Novice. I have never worked with parawood and know little about it’s characteristics. Sorry. best . . . paul
Hey Jessica. I would sand it assures that all old surface contaminants are removed allowing the oil a better chance of penetrating. It also levels the surface and scratches. best . . . paul
Hey Duane. You can stain maple BUT it is a hard wood to get proper absorption. There are both hard and soft maple and they take stain differently. I typically don’t stain maple because of issues especially blotching. I would strongly recommend you experiment on the bottom of your new table surface. You might have to use a conditioner which further blocks absorption. I would go with an oil stain. best . . . paul
Hey Eve. Thanks for the positive feedback. Glad to be part of the learning journey. best . . . paul
Just came across this site. Wish i would have last week. working on a large live edge table. I have applied 4 coats of tongue oil very close to what you recommended for ratio of tongue oil and mineral spirits. I ran fans and kept heat temps in mid 60’s. I waited around 18 hours between coats. Didnt sand til between 3rd and 4th. When i sanded, it did gum up the sand paper which led me to believe it wasnt completely cured or dried. I also am having some blotchy spots. Some areas still seem dull and want more oil with other areas shiny. I am planning to let it dry for a few weeks and then sand with 400 grit. Was wondering if i should just continue with straight tongue oil now or a blend of tongue oil and spar varnish that you spoke about in other comments. I have been using straight Old Masters Tung Oil. Anyway hoping for a things to even out for final finish but not wanting it to be shiny as i would assume a varnish finish would create. Thanks for the help.
Hey Scott. Eighteen hours between coats is not enough. Applying more tung oil on top of non-cured oil delays the process dramatically and may seal in wet oil making it impossible to overcome. The only way to tell if your coats are dry is to do a light sanding and look for a powder residue. Gumming up is definitely a sign of a non-dry oil. Not sure what your next step should be but if it were me at this point I would remove as much as i can, allow to dry thoroughly and start from scratch. As far as varnish goes, if you want a duller sheen you can use a satin varnish.
There is a polymerized tung oil that’s been super-heated to change it’s molecular structure. It allows for rapid drying (1-2 days vs 1-4 weeks). It’s available online Google it.
best . . . paul
Paul, thanks for the response on this. I did follow guidelines on Old Masters Web page as it says this specific tung oil dries in 8-12 hours?? It doesn’t say polymerized on the can but interesting enough, when i do a search for polymerized oil on the web, this Old Masters tung oil comes up as an oil that is Polymerized?? Maybe i just got lucky on that. So at any rate i thought i was going extra with 18. Im hoping ill be ok if i just let it cure for a bit. I am leaving town for 3 weeks and thought to just let it be and do a couple additional coats when i get back after sanding. Is this a good plan or should i try and strip some of the oil prior to leaving town. I think I am going to order some dark tung oil and some satin varnish to do some experimenting with on some scrap wood. Like to get a little darker/richer tone to the wood. It is a Douglas Fir tree so has alot of lite blonde tones in it. Last question is if i wait a few weeks and sand it down with 400 and it is nice white powder should the application of additional coats be 50/50 tung oil and the varnish i decide on using. Or would you recommend cutting it with mineral spirits. Thanks again for the input..
Paul, just wanted to let you know I see now that Old Masters is not polymerized oil. Still odd that the spec sheet on this oil says cure time is 8-12 hours. Anyway just wanted to clear that up as I was not searching properly on the interweb. Thanks, Scott
Hey Scott. I don’t think Old Masters is a polymerized oil. I think it’s an oil blend. Probably has some tung, linseed and a varnish. I could be wrong. Manufacturers are devious as tung oil is expensive so blending makes it cheaper and faster drying. Neither here nor there at this point. I would let it sit for the 3 weeks and see what happens. For futures check Sutherland Wells. Their products are top notch. Let me know what happens, please. best . . . paul
Hey Scoot. Actually that dry time is common for blended tung oil. They add driers to the formula. As I mentioned previously many manufacturers are deceptive. Some who label their product tung oil have NO TUNG OIL WHATSOEVER!!! I always buy oil that says Pure Tung Oil. Can’t be sure what’s actually in any of the others. For fast drying and pure tung oil I have now been using polymerized tung oil.
Hey Daniel. First off if you’re getting white dust you are doing it right, congrats. It means the oil has dried enough and ready for the next coat. Remove as much dust as possible and don’t worry about the rest, it will dissolve with the next application. Don’t worry too much about over-sanding either. Tung oil is a penetrating finish so it goes deep into the wood (the reason for extreme thinning is to help it go deeper into the fibers and pores). If you are sanding with a fine grade paper (320-400) you can’t remove much material anyway. Make sure that you are not over tacking with the cloth though. Tack cloth contains a varnish which if overdone can act to seal the wood making future oil applications less effective. Try a cloth dampened with mineral spirits (dampened not soaked) instead of tack cloth. It will pick up some of the dust and dissolve the rest. Sorry for the delayed response been out shoveling the midwest snow almost continuously for the last 3 days!!! best . . . paul
Hi Paul,
I’m looking to refinish an outdoor bench and table with Tung oil. Given the long drying times between coats, do I need to protect them from the rain during this period?
Hey Lewis. No not really but increased humidity will delay drying. Google polymerized tung oil. It dries in 24-48 hours. Not many places carry it. It’s pure tung oil but it’s been super heated to change it slightly chemically. This process greatly speeds dry times. It’s more expensive but worth it. You might even consider doing a 50:50 blend with spar varnish for added exterior protection!! best . . . paul
Glad to hear jsas. You are right about keeping reapplying. Fast and simple. So are repairs if needed. The other nice part about Pure Tung Oil is it’s food safe. Thanx for the follow up. It’s always nice to hear about end results. best . . . paul
Great article! Thank you! I want to use pure tung oil on my deck. I saw an earlier post where you said you could re-coat the next day. Does that mean I can re-coat the next 4 coats each 24 hours? Also can I use a roller? If so, does it have to be foam?
Hey Laura. Decks tend to be dry and porous and the process isn’t as exacting as on a piece of fine furniture. As long as the surface is dry and not tacky you can reapply. I’m not sure about 4 coast in 24 hours though. Yes you can roll it on. best . . . paul
I have a nice piece of old growth redwood that will be the mantel over my fireplace. Three sides are finished with the front side live. Because it’s old, it was pretty dry with the live edge crumbly. I followed your directions to wet it and sand, then I’ve followed (mostly) the steps of adding mineral spirits and building up to just tung oil. I’ve been coating the live edge pretty heavily since I figured it would look totally weird if I left it dry. I’m down to the last step of pure tung oil in a few days. I have to say the oil has created a beautiful finish on the top and bottom (and sides) of the piece and the live edge has some great color variations. I’m torn on the paste wax now. Nothing heavy will be on the mantel and it will need occasional dusting. Will the paste wax add significantly to the finish or should I just leave well enough alone? Only planning to use it on the top, unless there is added benefit to waxing the sides and bottom. Thoughts?
Hey Rebecca. Personally I would NOT wax the finish. It will only dull it and clog the woods pores. Wax deteriorates and has to be reapplied periodically. It serves no real purpose especially with tung oil. In the future if something were to damage the finish it can be easily repaired applying another coat of oil. Not so if the surface is waxed. best . . . paul
Hey Gary. I wipe when I see any spot on the surface looking dry. This will vary time-wise depending on temperature and humidity. Typically it’s 20-40 minutes depending on which coat it is (the initial thinner coats dry faster). Any clean cloth that will absorb excess is fine. best . . . paul
Thank you! Going to install it this weekend. Your instructions were invaluable!
Hey Recbecca. My pleasure. Glad to be of some help. Thanx for your feedback. best . . . paul
Comment have a new covered front porch. Built with rough sawed lumber. 6×6,4×6,3×8 popular wood. It’s six months old and has gone through a n Indiana winter. Can I apply pure tung oil with no sanding? What is your advice. Thank you. Bob Allen
Hey Robert. Yes. Be sure to thin the initial coats to get good absorption. best . . . paul
I am currently treating a butcher block countertop with mineral oil. But I am not excited for the oily finish it leaves afterwards. Can Tung oil be applied to a butcher block currently being treated with mineral oil or will it need to be sanded completely?
Hi Megan. Yeah the problem with mineral oil is it’s a non-drying oil so it will evaporate slightly but it will never go away. It poses a problem when trying to refinish with any other oil. Tung oil can’t get down into the pores where mineral oil is residing. You could try using a strong solvent like a lacquer thinner saturation and toweling it for absorption but I have no way of knowing how successful that may or may not be. Sorry wish I had a better answer. best . . . paul
Hello Paul, I came across a finishing technique on Maple is to apply Tung Oil after the final sanding. Then follow the Tung Oil with a coat or two of Shellac. Then for a more durable finish top coat over the Shellac with a clear lacquer. Is it really necessary to apply Shellac and Lacquer? This project is a large Maple slab 60″ L x 20 – 16″ W and 2 1/2″ thickness to be used as a Bonsai presentation table/bench. Also the slab has bark on two sides, I would like to keep the bark look. How should I finish the bark? Same application as brushing Tung Oil technique? Thank You Very Much!!
Hey Michael. All those steps may add some protection but to me it just adds unnecessary coats that might add to the possibility of finishing flaws.The only advantage would be the sheen if you are going for a high gloss finish (tung oil is satiny). Tung Oil is great by itself. It is durable, water resistant and easy to repair if damaged (the shellac/ lacquer would not be an easy fix). You can apply the same oil over the bark but be aware bark sheds over time. I typically remove it but my grandson has done a couple projects and the bark has remained intact for the last few years. best . . . paul
Hey Ben. I don’t know how important it is to get the oil more than a few microns deep? Polyurethane, lacquer and shellac just lay on the surface. The important part is sealing the wood thus making it impervious to liquid. I think we would have to examine the wood’s fibers. When wood is dried it removes moisture from the fiber’s pores. This makes them stiff and straight. When you wet the wood the fibers closest to the surface absorb the water first, if you keep applying or bathe the wood it will obviously absorb deeper. I keep the wood “wet” with oil for 30 minutes allowing for the initial coats to reach deeper. While I’m not a chemist the thinking is that the longer and thinner the application the deeper it will penetrate and absorb into the wood’s pores. Pure Tung Oil is thick so I personally doubt that it is very penetrating. Thinning has to help. Again, I’m not a chemist. Thanx for your experimentation and observations though. Maybe one our engineering friends can pick this up. best . . . paul
Hey Jennifer. I don’t think I would try applying thinner coats at this juncture. I’m not sure what it would do. At full strength as long as there are no bare spots, I think you’ll be fine. The beauty of oil finishes is if issues arise alter you can always recoat easily. best . . . paul
Hi Paul,
I have a thin veneered Koa wood tabletop that I would like to restore. I have pure tung oil but wondering if there is a brand of citrus solvent you can recommend that may be at a Home Depot or Lowe’s? I live in Maui and many things don’t ship here (and if they do there’s a hefty price tag). Also wondering how much sanding I need to do considering the veneer is very thin? Thanks!
Hi Melissa. I’m sorry but I am not at all familiar with citrus solvents. Fortunately in Illinois we still have access to mineral spirits. Sanding really depends on the condition of the wood. For Tung Oil you could start at a 220 and end at a 320 (if there are no major flaws and the wood is bare). It would be hard to cut through with those grits. best . . . paul
Hey Jeremy. First congrats on your purchase!! Second floors are not my specialty and a different animal from furniture finishing. Last while Tung Oil is a great product I personally would not use it on floors (although it’s been done by others). Most floors are polyurethane coated. It’s durable, waterproof and cost effective. While any wood is appropriate oak is the most common and perhaps the most durable. All my floors are oak with a polyurethane finish. best . . . paul
Hey Geoff. Very Nice! Tung Oil takes patience but well worth the results. A mild soap and water solution is the best. Do not use furniture polish on it. Your finish should last years (if not decades) unless abused. If spots do show up just apply more Tung Oil to the affected area. Great finish!! best . . . paul
Hey Jeanna. Sorry for the delayed response (out of town). Tung Oil is water resistant but not chemical resistant which makes it less desirable for kitchen use. Consider a blend of POLYMERIZED Tung Oil and spar varnish. This is a durable finish that is soft, water and most household chemical resistant and luxurious. I mix my own 50/50. Sotherland Wells in Vermont (online) has a premix and offer the polymerized version of Tung Oil. best . . .paul
Hey Greenthing. We have a problem here. Let me try to explain a little. Wood is like a sponge. It is wet when cut from the forest. They take it to a saw mill and cut it into planks. Commercially (big mills) will then put it in huge drying ovens. It removes the majority of moisture leaving a relatively dry (and extremely thirsty) plank. Along it’s fibers it has openings (pores) where moisture passes in and out. Woodworkers take this to their advantage when staining and oiling for color and protection. Oil finishes soak into the pores. Once the wood is saturated there is no room for other liquids, hence liquid resistance. Surface coatings (polyurethane, lacquer, shellac, wax) seal the surface with very little entering the wood’s pores. It’s analogous to saran wrapping the wood. The oil and wax that’s been already applied will not allow for proper absorption.
There is tons of info and techniques on removing wax and oil finishes on Google. I’ll defer on that subject. Tung Oil is a good choice. It is durable, food safe, water PROOF (not just resistant) and it is easily repaired when damaged (scratched, worn, etc). I would recommend using polymerized tung oil vs pure tung oil. It can be purchased online at Sutherland Wells. Polymerization speeds dry time dramatically and still retains all the benefits. Do not use products labeled tung oil vs Pure Tung Oil as they are chemically altered and not food safe.
Hope this helps.best . . . paul
Hey Greenthing. Sorry I have never worked with mineral spirits/beeswax combos, so I’m not sure how you should proceed. As to food safe knowledge and concerns: Yes and no. This is my opinion only, I have little background in chemistry. I once tried to write an article on food safe finishes and gave up because it seems all finishes can be questionable. Plant based oils (walnut oil, linseed oil, cooking oils, etc) are subject to rot, so they are not technically food safe. Mineral spirits is a highly refined petroleum based oil so I wonder if it’s 100% food safe itself? Most salad bowl oils and butcher blocks oils are mineral spirit based. My thought is that laying food on an undisturbed surface is safe. I would personally not cut on it as I would not cut on a polyurethane coated surface. For 25 years I worked in an older building with exposed ceilings lined with asbestos but painted. The environmental engineer who did the analysis told us that unless the surface is violated and the air contaminated with its dust it’s safe environmentally. That said, I can tell by your handle that you’re probably more up on this subject than I am. You could use pure tung oil as it is not subject to rot, but then it rages the debate about nut allergies (although it’s made from the seed of a nut, so not sure if it qualifies). best . . . paul
Hi Paul… thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience! I’m working on restoring a vintage drum set and plan to apply a paper backed (1/40th) composite rosewood veneer to the shells. I plan on applying a pure Tung oil finish following the process you outlined. My question is do I need to do anything different with the sanding process or Tung oil application since this is a composite/engineered veneer? Thanks a million!!
Hey Paul. I will assume that we are talking the same terminology and that you have a real wood veneer over a composite subsurface. In that case yes use the same technique. While I have not used larger sheets of veneer I have used veneer edge banding and it stains and takes finishes well. best . . . paul
Hey Daria. I too took many classes early in my hobby. In those days there were no YouTube videos or internet so it was challenging but fun. Glad I’m a small part of your journey. best . . . paul