How to Apply Boiled Linseed Oil Properly -Tips & Techniques
Boiled linseed oil provides a lustrous finish to any wood project. It is a full-proof system that any level of finisher can do without fear of failure! While there’s a slight learning curve rest assured its pretty hard to mess this process up.
Pure linseed oil is extremely thick and very slow to dry. Boiled linseed oil (BLO) has chemical driers and thinners added to enhance the application and drying processes. BLO provides a rich oil finish that adds character, depth and beauty to virtually any wood surface. BLO has a definite place in a woodworker’s arsenal.

BLO has been around for a long time and is a favorite of many woodworkers and wood finishers. It is a product of flax-seed. A plant renowned for its health benefits and floral beauty. Raw linseed oil is a eco-friendly, green product. Boiled linseed oil is not.
Unfortunately, raw linseed oil is not workable in its natural state due mostly to its heavy viscosity and extended drying times. Once applied it can remain “sticky” for years.
Linseed products suitable for wood finishing on the market today are sold as “Boiled Linseed Oil” or “Purified Linseed Oil”. Originally linseed oil was boiled in a vacuum to remove molecules of oxygen and breakdown its food components, principally fatty acids. This process accomplished a few things: it enhanced drying time; reduced stickiness; and it helped reduce the tendency of the oil to turn rancid.
Today the term boiled linseed oil is in many cases is a slight misnomer and in other cases a total misnomer. Most BLO products sold today as boiled linseed oil are no longer boiled but are instead replaced with chemicals that increase drying time, thin the oil to a workable state and impair rancidity. Because of this it is no longer a green product nor is it classified as a food-safe product.
There is a new system (actually a very old process re-introduced) of refining raw linseed oil. The product is most frequently label “Purified Linseed Oil”. Producers of PLO have reverted back to simply boiling the oil in modern pressurized cooking pots and market it without chemical additives. Purified linseed oil is green and food-safe.

There are a number of advantages BLO and PLO over pure Tung oil. While all three are known for adding character and depth to wood there are some strong advantages to Linseed Oil. BLO is faster drying, easier to apply, requires fewer coats and costs less. Unfortunately I cannot comment on PLO as I have never personally used it. (I am open to product information and product donations for experimentation and review).
The downside to BLO is the tendency to yellow with age, the possibility it can turn rancid, the fact that it will mildew if used in damp environments (typically outdoor use) and is not food-safe. Linseed oil offers “water protection”. It is a natural water repellent. There is an ongoing debate it may or may not be waterproof.
That said for the right application, in the right environment, the advantages of linseed oil far outweigh any disadvantages.
Applying Boiled Linseed Oil – What You’ll Need to Get Started
For New Wood – 2 Grades of Sand Paper (120 – 180 – 220 – 320 – 400)
Old Wood or Damaged Surfaces – Sandpaper (80-120-180 – 220 – 320 – 400) and a mechanical
sander
Tack Cloth
Between Coats – 400 grit paper or #0000 steel wool or grey scotch brite pad
Applicator (choose one)– Cotton Rag or Stiff Natural Bristle Brush
Boiled Linseed Oil
Suitable mixing container with a lid for air tight storage between coats
Clean rag for wiping excess
Applying Boiled Linseed Oil – Properly
Proper BLO Application and Surface Preparation
When oiling wood the surface should be first finish sanded to anywhere from 320 to 400 grit sandpaper. Surface coatings (polyurethane, lacquer, shellac) hide 180 grit sandpaper scratches whereas oil will accentuate them. So when oiling wood a finer finish sanding is highly recommended.
Raising Woods Grain – A necessary Step for a Fine Finish
Think of prepping wood for finishing like getting a haircut. The first wash after your barber visit results in a whole bunch of split ends that suddenly pop. Well, wood fibers are a lot like hair strands. After all the sawing, gluing, planning and sanding many of the wood fibers are damaged and torn. Adding moisture (like shampooing your hair) pops those broken strands and they need to be removed for a really nice finish.
For that better finish the grain should be intentionally raised before staining or finishing. I always wet my woods after my 180 grit sanding (for a complete sanding explanation see my YouTube videos Sanding Efficiently <for beginners>, and Choosing the Right Grade Sandpaper for Your Woodworking Project <for all levels>). Wetting the wood raises its grain (kinda like split-ends in hair) which can be sanded down with the last or next sanding of 180 or 220 grit papers.
Raising the Grain entails wetting the wood’s surface, letting it dry and then re-sanding to knock down raised wood fibers. You can use a spray bottle or a wet rag to moisten (not soak) the surface. Let it dry and then come back and sand or re-sand with a 220 grit sandpaper (if you are staining or applying a surface coating use 180 grit to level the grain).
TIP: First time with BLO? It’s always best to get the feel of any procedure by practicing in an unnoticeable area on your project like the bottom of a table, the back of a dresser, the inside of a cabinet, etc. I’ve done thousands of projects over the last 30 plus years and “ALWAYS” follow this rule on every one of them.
BLO can be applied with a soft clean rag, a piece of #0000 steel wool or a grey scotch brite pad. It can be applied to by pouring directly from the can to an applicator but you will have better control and less waste by pouring a small amount in a bowl and dipping the applicator.
Start with the hardest to reach spots first to avoid contact later in the application. Apply in circular motions across the grain of the wood. The object of the first coat is to saturate the wood as deeply as possible.
Apply a generous but controllable amount of boiled linseed oil to your applicator especially for the initial few coats. The surface should look very, very wet but not puddled. Older and reclaimed woods will suck it up like a camel drinking water in the dessert. All areas should look wet but if any areas have standing puddles spread them out or wipe them off.
On the flip side if your wood sucks in your application, reapply again and again keeping the surface wet (but not puddled) with oil for the next 30 minutes. After 30 minutes your wood should be saturated with oil and any excess wiped off.
Watch for the next couple hours and if any excess oil has bubbled to the surface wipe it off. At this point allow to dry overnight before applying the next coat.
Re-application Timing – Subsequent Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil
Wait time is based on how quickly the surface dries. This is a factor based on temperature, humidity and thickness of the coat. In most cases overnight dry is sufficient. However if the next day the surface is still tacky allow more time. The surface should feel dry and somewhat slippery to touch before re-coating.
Boiled Linseed Oil Re-coating – Sanding Between Coats
When the surface is no longer tacky to touch you are ready to do a very lite sanding following the direction of the grain (operative word is lite as we don’t want to cut through the very thin layer we just put down previously). Use either a 400-600 grit sandpaper, a #0000 grade steel wool, or a grey scotch brite pad (grey pads are rated 400-600 grit).
Follow this method for the next coat. Typically you would lay down three coats.
Applying Boiled Linseed Oil – The Final Coat
The only difference in this coat is you don’t sand after the final coat. I allow it to cure and then depending on the look I am looking for I might apply a coat of paste wax. Paste wax on wood is just like paste wax on your car. It offers minimal protection but adds depth and smoothness to your wood project.
TIP: Avoid waxes with silicone additives. Silicone (like WD-40) adds a slippery texture that feels nice to the touch but fouls refinishing coatings and becomes an absolute bear to remove should you ever decide to touch-up or refinish your project.
Boiled Linseed Oil – Repair
You won’t believe how easy this is. Clean the damaged area, apply BLO undiluted to a soft cotton cloth and wipe it on. If it soaks it up quickly apply a little more and repeat until the wetness lasts for 15-20 minutes. After 20 minutes, with a little elbow grease, rub the BLO into the damaged area for a few minutes. Wipe any excess and you’re done.
Boiled Linseed Oil – Rag Disposal
Oily rags are volatile and should be hung to air dry. Rags have been known to spontaneously combust when balled up in a refuge container.
Boiled Linseed Oil – Dry vs Hardening
Boiled linseed oil dries in a few days and can be put in moderate service. Boiled linseed oil does not fully cure or harden (dry all the way through) for 30-45 days. It’s okay to put your project in service once dry but you should refrain from heavy use until hardened.
My Refinishing Furniture YouTube Library:
Chemical Strippers vs Heat Gun – Refinishing Furniture
Sanding Efficiently – The Second Step In Refinishing Furniture
Choosing the Right Grade Sandpaper for Your Woodworking Project – Refinishing Furniture
Blotch-Free Wood Stain Application Technique – Refinishing Furniture
Bubble-Free Polyurethane Application Technique
When and How to Wipe On Polyurethane – Refinishing Furniture
Ultimate Guide to Bubble Free Varnish – Doors, Furniture, Cabinets, Tables
Fixing Polyurethane Bubbles, Puddles, Runs and Brush Marks
Proper Brush Cleaning – Paint, Polyurethane, Varnish, Shellac
Refinishing Furniture PDF Summary Sheets Available for Download and Printing:
Polyurethane – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF
Stripper – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF
Sanding – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF
Choosing the Right Grade Sandpaper (Chart) PDF
Staining – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF
Wipe On Polyurethane – Rules, Tips and Paraphernalia PDF
Tags:application, china oil, how to apply, oil finish, surface preparation, thinning tung oil, tung oil, wood finish, wood oil
Hey Dewald. I typically don’t make product recommendations but I just did my deck with Readt Seal. best . . . paul
Hi Donna. Yes and do it ASAP. Once done allow to dry overnight. The next day sand lightly with a 400 grit paper and reapply following the procedure I outline. You should be just fine. best . . . paul
Hey Cole. It Depends. Boiled linseed oil is not pure oil. Typically they add thinners, driers and/or hardeners. Depends on manufacturer. Some might add urethane resins. If your product is straight oil and your wood is not over-saturated already it may take up an oil stain. I don’t think it would hurt to try. I would definitely recommend you test it in an obscure area first though. best . . . paul
P.S. This is not a common approach if you do try it, please let me know your results.
Refinishing an outdoor wooden table/chairs, not sure of the wood type. I finished with BOL when we purchased several years ago. The wood pretty weathered/gray. I’ve typically power washed in the spring when we bring it outside for the summer season to remove any mold/mildew. Should I power wash prior to sanding and treating with boiled linseed oil, or just sand and treat?
Hey Shep. I love my power-washer!! Here’s the problem though. Power-washing drives the water way, way, way down into the wood. It is such a dramatic over saturation that it typically takes days (even weeks in humid conditions)of dry weather to dry out. Sanding wood when wet tears fibers and tends to create a ton of grain raise. Worse is applying an oil based finish or surface finish over damp wood. Now I’m not saying don’t power wash but as an option you could clean the wood with a deck cleaning compound or household bleach to remove the mildew at which point I’d give it a day or two to dry, then sand, then apply your finish. I like BLO but have you ever considered polymerized tung oil? A bit more expensive but a better outdoor oil. Just some thoughts. best . . . paul
Hey Andrea. It’s not the wood, it’s the finish. Unless the door was not properly kiln dried (doubtful) polyurethane is not the best choice for outside structures. BLO could work but if you are going with oil I would choose polymerized tung oil over linseed oil. The other option is spar (marine) varnish. It’s used on wooden boats and they get a lot of weather abuse! best . . . paul
Hi there everyone, it’s my first visit at this web site, and post is
in fact fruitful for me, keep up posting these types of content.
Thanx Sue.
Hey Howard. Yes you can put spar varnish over BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil). BLO is water resistant but NOT waterproof, so the spar varnish application for outdoor woods. I would let the BLO cure for 10-14 days and then do a light sanding with a 220 grit paper. best . . . paul
Comment Good information. I was going to use a fine sandpaper sponge block to sand but I guess I need to go buy higher grit sandpaper for my project…outdoor dining table and chairs made of cedar (I think).
I’m not sure you have to go as high a grit paper as you would on say a piece of fine furniture (not saying your patio set isn’t fine furniture) but typically outdoor furniture is a little more rustic. In that case it’d be okay to stop around 180 grit sandpaper.
I scrubbed my cedar patio dining set with degreaser and stiff brush & green scrub pad to get years of dirt off. Rinsed it well with hose and let it dry overnight. Should I wait another day to apply BLO. It is nice and warm outside and wood feels very dry.
Hey Pauline. Why are you thinking Linseed Oil? I might go with Polymerized Tung Oil which is waterproof vs water resistant. It tends to be a little more durable as well. It is UV resistant and not prone to mildew. The fact that it is polymerized (super heated to change its chemical structure) means it dries quicker and can be recoated the next day. As far as dryness is concerned it’s best if it’s reeeeally dry. Wood looses moisture over time so when it comes in contact with anything wet it sucks it up into it’s empty cells. (That’s why wood swells and shrinks with seasonal humidity changes). Ideally you would like those empty cells filled with oil which is far less subject to evaporation. If your wood cells are filled with water there’s less room for oil. I would wait a minimum of 3 days in dry climate and longer in humid areas of the country. Hope that helps. best . . . paul
Hey Ian. Okay couple questions first: Do you think the circular pattern is the result of applying the BLO or from steel wooling the area? When you used the steel wool to remove the old finish what wooling pattern did you use? Let me know and I’ll tell you what I think.
Hey Ian. That’s way too coarse of a wool. It’s okay to remove old finish but then it needs to be followed by progressively finer wool down to #0000. Once done I would apply your BLO with a brush or a rag. best . . . paul
I have brand new cedar wishing well. They said it should be sealed with BLO before winter and then kept up so the cedar doesn’t turn grey.
Hey Sandy. All outdoor woods should be treated. BLO is a good choice. It will have to be maintained though. A little tougher finish is spar (marine) varnish. Maintenance still but less often. best . . . paul
Mark Vaughn Hi, Paul, My dad used BLO on all his gun stocks, which he made from blanks. I had a shotgun that got wet for several hours; I thought the stock was basically ruined. I let it dry out. It was mottled and looked bad. I noticed that it seemed to have some sort of oil finish vs lacquer or varnish. So, I thought what the heck, I’ll try some BLO. Wow! one coat and it looks new! I didn’t even sand it, just did a little hand rubbing. Unless it looks “dry” when it fully cures, I think I’ll quit while I’m ahead.
Hey Mark. That’s the beauty of oil finish. It’s easy to rejuvenate!. Most gun stock owners use an oil called Tru Oil. It’s not a pure oil and different manufacturers combine it with different chemicals much like BLO. best . . . paul
Hey Ken. Perfect. Excess won’t hurt. It’s outside and not a piece to be examined closely by friends and family who tend to be brutal critics!! So, I say, “Who Cares” right? best . . . paul
Comment
Hello there,
My contractor applied a thin coat of linseed oil to my new linoleum (marmoleum brand sheet goods) floor. The After 24 hours, the floor is still tacky in places. Do you have any ideas of how to take the linseed oil off? I was happy with the original finish, but he typically applies the linseed oil and has had no problems. Do you know what I could use to remove the new linseed oil finish? I assume it is BLO but I have just asked him to send me the product info. Thank you.
Hi Robin. Sorry but I am not familiar with marmoleum or its properties. I know certain cleaning products and harsh chemicals are to be avoided. I would contact the manufacturer for their input. best . . . paul
Hello Paul,
Trust this finds you well.
Read above that you used “READY SEAL” for your outdoor decking, is this better than Boil Linseed OIL.
We have an outdoor area of approximately 290 M2 that we will be using srs wood of 36 mm thick 100 mm wide and 990 mm long. its a pool area. Hence, decking will be subject to water and sand.
Thank you in advance for your “‘advice”
Hey Sally. I’m not an authority on deck finishes so I am not really sure if one’s better than another. I wanted an oil sealer with color. Ready Seal seemed a great product from my search of reviews. I applied it 3 years ago and it is still holding up, so I’m satisfied. best . . . paul
Hi – I used BLO on two cigar box guitar necks, doing three coats, with the sanding between per your suggestions – the poplar neck is smooth and turned out well, the Mahogany neck is not as smooth as I would like. I am wondering your opinion on doing another few rounds of BLO on the mahogany vs using something else.
Hey paul. Yeah mahogany doesn’t take BLO as well as other woods. Try using a woodworking paste (like Beeswax) after the BLO is fully cured (2-3 weeks). best . . . paul
Hey David. Beautiful wood with striking characteristics. I think a lot depends on the look you are shooting for. Many people want to preserve the whiteness of maple. This is always in the eye of the beholder. Any oil based finish is going to amber the wood, whereas a water based finish won’t (as much). Oil will pop sanding scratches so l you should go much higher in sanding grits. I would go to a 180, followed by 220, 300 and then 400 grit. With water based varnishes such as polyurethane or lacquer you can stop around a 180-220 grit. Be sure to remove all sanding dust which becomes especially tricky with the fine dust created by the high grit papers. I like polymerized tung oil over BLO but the difference is minimal. Sutherland Wells has a really nice array of finishing oils and varnishes including some nice como finishes. You should practice on the underside (always with any project) before jumping on the finished side. best . . . paul
Hey Jim. Too much thinner will only enhance the wood’s dryness by dissipating what little oil might be left in the wood. Thinning is a good idea as it helps the oil saturate the wood’s pores. I would do a couple coats decreasing the ratio. I would start at 1:1, then 2BLO:1Thinner and finish at 3BLO:1Thinner. That would be my approach but adding any amount of oil will help. best . . . paul
I am new to furniture making and made a beautiful cherry desktop for a Variable Height Desk Frame I bought from Vivo. It’s for my wife and she loves an oil finish. I was looking at your article on linseed oil and decided to use BLO. I found your discussion extremely useful. I have some leftover cherry and I’m making a serving tray for when guests come visiting. That will be my test for applying BLO before I finish the desktop.
My question is which brand of paste wax should I use. Your article said not to use wax with silicone additives. Can I use something like Johnson Paste Wax for Floors or Pure Canuba wax like used on cars?
Hey Paul. Most waxes are okay. Just read the label for ingredients. Carnauba care waxes are great but to be honest I would just leave the oil finish without waxes. They add little. best . . . paul
Hi Paul. I ripped some thin boards from a fallen ash tree, then cut these into 4×4 coasters. I just applied a coat of linseed oil and I’m wondering what to do next. If I cover the linseed oil with something water resistant like spar urethane, the coasters will be protected but I really care more about the coasters protecting tabletops, so I’m thinking of staying with the linseed oil since the oil will absorb some of the condensation from cold drinks in summer.
So, I have a couple of questions. First, do you think staying with the oil is a good approach? Second, how many coats would you estimate I need, and how should I judge when enough is enough?
Thanks very much for this write-up. It’s great!
Hey Steve. I’m assuming you are using Boiled Linseed Oil. Unless you you specifically bought purified linseed oil most commercial products are mixed with some type of drying agents and varnishes. 3 coats should do ya. best . . . paul
Hi Elizabeth. Nice find!! The tone and appearance brought on by wetting the wood be very close to the same when applying oil. The good news is it will take years to return to the dry weathered look you have now. BLO would be perfect for this job. Just be sure to apply all your coats before installing on the ceiling. To assure evenness in the drying process I would oil both sides. You definitely don’t have to sand since you are probably going for more of a weathered look. Since you won’t be handling or washing it once installed there should be no maintenance for a lot of years!! Happy Holidays . . . paul
Hey John. Sure. I assume they are inside. If so you might want to consider polyurethane. It’s a little more protective and durable for a stairwell. If outside (rred oak would not be my first choice) I would go with tung oil. It’s UV and waterproof. best . . . paul
Hey Eric. I wouldn’t keep wetting the wood. It serves no real purpose. I like to use a cloth dampened with a little mineral spirits to pick up any left behind saw dust missed by vacuuming or blowing with compressed air. But it shouldn’t staturate the wood. Yes a light sanding is in order after each oil application. Be sure to give it enough time to dry though. It should produce a fine white dust when dried. Bees wax is fine but I don’t really like waxing furniture. It really doesn’t serve much of a purpose and requires frequent reapplication. Glad to be of some help. Sounds like a nice find!! best . . . paul
Hey Jim. No. BLO is modified oil with drying agents, thinning agents and hardening agents mixed in. Each manufacturer has a distinct recipe so more additives can make it unstable and is very hit and miss. Just follow directions I outlined. best . . . paul
CommentThis is a great site, Paul! Clear and thoughtful advice and feedback. Just imagine all the projects that came out better because of your input….
I am making a new cedar top for a patio table (old one was glass… you can guess the rest). The wood was new, so I’ve applied several very light coats of boiled linseed oil, which I know is water-resistant but not waterproof. Would it be worth it to apply a waterproof polyurethane after all that, or will that negate all the benefit of the BLO? I’m more concerned with durability than looks, for this project. It will inevitably get a lot of rain (and possibly snow).
Hey Robert. Thanx for the positive comments. You are 100% correct. Many BLO’s have some degree of urethane in them but for ultimate outdoor protection I would recommend a spar varnish or an outdoor rated polyurethane (they are softer allowing for seasonal expansion/contractions) and have a UV protection in them. Spar Varnish (also called marine varnish) is the ultimate in weather proofing and has been used on wooden boats for eons. If you decide on polyurethane I would recommend an oil based poly. best . . . paul
Hey Kerri. The simple answer is concrete. BLO should handle most spills but it won’t protect from scratches from dog claws and kids with hammers. Sorry wish there was a good answer but I have none. best . . . paul
Hey George. Here’s the problem with sanding with that fine of sandpaper: It creates such a fine sanding dust that it often clogs the woods pores. This can block ant liquid absorption. Even with 300-400 grit papers on wood micro dust removal is critical and removal becomes a complicated process. Oil needs to saturate to be effective. Switching to a wipe on polyurethane is certainly an option but I would focus on dust removal and resand with a coarser paper (180-220) as polyurethane needs a rougher surface to bite onto. One more potential issue with refinishing: Older furniture has often been waxed and polished and it’s hard to remove that residue with sanding (it often just pushes it around). Many of today’s polishes also have silicone which is impossible (almost) to remove. This too may be influencing absorption. best . . . paul
Hey Doug. As far as exterior oils are concerned I would personally choose a tung oil product. Linseed oil is water resistant whereas tung oil is waterproof. It also handles UV exposure better. The downside to tung oil is dry times but now you can go with a polymerized tung oil which dries fast. Check Sutherland Wells online for that. Another option would be a spar varnish (also called marine varnish). Waterlox make an exterior marine varnish that is tung oil based. Very durable to weather. An exterior rated BLO is still an option but in the long run I think tung oil the better choice. best . . . paul
Hi Paul. First of all amazing site and wealth of information.
A follow up question on your last response to Doug… I am refinishing a cedar patio table. After planing to bare wood, I already applied first coat of BLO late yesterday. Should I continue with the BLO or switch to tung oil?
Also to confirm, top coat can be applied within 1-3 days once BLO isn’t tacky or do I need to wait the 30 or so days until fully cured?
If it’s relavent, I’m located in North Texas so high heat in summers and (I think) we’ve also been getting decent amount of rain and cold winters recently. Purchased Old Masters Marine Varnish as top coat. The table is outside but under wood pergola so not in direct sun.
Thank you!
– Ray
Hey Ray. Here’s the problem. BLO is a misnomer these days. Linseed oil was boiled in the old days to help with dry times and hardening. Today there are a few manufacturers who still boil linseed oil (most refer to it as Purified Linseed Oil). BLO has chemical driers and hardeners and I’ve heard some manufacturers add polyurethane (there is no standard) just as there is no standard for tung oils, danish oils, tru oil, etc, etc. Pure Tung Oil contains no additives but is slow to dry (weeks to months). Marine Varnish (also called Spar Varnish) should be Tung Oil based, and contains driers, hardeners, UV blockers and adds chemicals that make it softer to handle seasonal wood expansion/contraction issues (this helps minimize cracking).
If the BLO you used has no urethane, using Tung Oil over Linseed Oil should not present a problem. The problem comes with identifying ingredients since most don’t tell you what’s in it. For future check out an online supplier called Sutherland Wells. Pricey but superior products with full disclosure. best . . . paul
Hi Jane. This is a tough question to answer. Often when oil won’t absorb it’s because of surface contamination. As an example many furniture polishes contain silicone which is virtually impossible to remove and foils future refinishing. Could be wax, grease, etc. Another possibility is clogged pores. This often happens when too fine a sandpaper is used and sanding dust is not thoroughly removed. If the wood’s pores are clogged the oil can’t be absorbed. I am personally not a big fan of Danish oil as there is no standard in its production. It’s a combination product made up of various oils, varnishes, dryers, hardeners, etc. In the future consider using polymerized tung oil. It’s pure tung oil that has been super heated. The heating alters it’s chemistry so it dries within a day making it easier to work with (vs pure tung oil). I would clean as much as possible with a lacquer thinner, resand with a 180-220 grit, vacuum thoroughly, wipe down again and hopefully it resolves your problem. best . . . paul
Hey Darrell. Yeah on the sanding. Anything over 300 grit sandpaper should only be used for polishing. The problem is it creates such a fine sanding dust that it actually clogs the wood’s pores. The pores are what absorbs your oil and gives it that nice rich looking appearance. So sounds like you probably have some oil that soaked in and some that is laying on top and some that just wiped off. The next issue is what is in the brand BLO that you used. There is no standard recipe for BLO. Each manufacturer alters it to their liking. That creates an issue with how best to correct or remove it! Maybe write me before next guitar and we can review the basics. Sorry, wish I had a definitive answer but together we might create a bigger mess. best . . . paul
Building a new pergola with Douglas fir lumber
Is boiled linseed oil best with a semitransparent oil stain best
(Do not want to use green treated lumbrt)
Hello,
I recently purchased a 1920 cabin in the mountains of eastern Oregon. The siding is 5/4 pine that is 12 inches wide with battens. The bottom of the siding is showing black mold/mildew. I think the siding has been finished with BLO. The color is dark brown and the finish is somewhat crystalline like where there are runs. I want to pressure wash the siding and refinish. Is BLO a good candidate for this?
Hey Scott. Awesome purchase!! Personally I would use tung oil. Tung oil would be better for outdoor use and it has all the properties you need for outdoor use. It’s waterproof, UV resistant, mildew resistant, durable and easy to repair if needed. It should go over the prior finish if it is BLO if not a good power washing should get down to where the new oil finish will saturate. I made a platform bird feeder out of forest timber and did 3 coats of pure tung oil. Looks like new after a few midwest winters (except for where the squirrels climb up the trunk). best . . . paul